Nippy in Nong Khiaw

Having settled into life in Luang Prabang and sorted out the issue of how to eat boiled eggs without eggcups, we decided on a little 2-day trip up north to the town of Nong Khiaw.

Trevann considers the egg situation with improvised eggcup number 1

Further modifications and we came up with a moderately successful solution

Nong Khiaw is a small riverside town that straddles the banks of the Nam Ou river. You used to be able to take a boat up from Luang Prabang but since the first of seven massive planned hydro dams has been built across the river, that option is no longer available. Pity.

So we set out, crammed into an overloaded minivan which then proceeded to stop and pick up every local hitchhiker and their shopping - as you do. Surely there's no room for another!?

Three uncomfortable hours later we arrived at Nong Khiaw - and it was really cold! It's a stunningly beautiful area with steep karst mountains, lovely river and tree-covered slopes but it's difficult to appreciate it and to stay warm in a bamboo shack. At first we hid under four duvets but later found a friendly local bar where we could huddle round the charcoal burner - a repurposed bomb casing. Bearing in mind we're not far from the Vietnamese border and Bien Dien Phu here it's definitely not a good idea to stray from well-trodden paths.

Coat, hat, scarf and trousers for our first view of Nong Khiaw!

Viewed through the mist. Our bungalow is one of that row on the right. Fab position

Our riverside cabin

Even indoors we were cold

Which is a shame because the view from the balcony was lovely

Fortunately, the second day the sun made an appearance and we got out for a walk

Along the road out of town

School home time. No Chelsea tractors here!

In the sunshine it's lovely

With beautiful sunset scenes

Another repurposed bomb casing

On the way back we passed the aforementioned Nam Ou Dam 2

Construction is funded by the Chinese and all the workers are brought in from China. The local villages are not consulted and are forced to relocate. They end up losing their fishing and tourism livelihoods. And apparently Thailand no longer wants to buy the electricity when it's up and running!

Back home in Luang Prabang we were delighted to find this fella is still resident in the garden wall. Such beautiful markings. He's a golden tree snake - mildly venomous but very shy.