Moving on while looking back

Most conversations with people who have lived in or visited Luang Prabang over a few years start with how much it has changed. The huge influx of visitors - particularly from China - has certainly had an impact and I'm shocked to hear about the way that some tourists are apparently disrespecting the special, precious rites and customs of the city, such as the morning almsgiving, with inappropriate loud behaviour and intrusive photography.
However, much of the essence of the place is intact and family life continues in many areas of town as it has done for centuries. Our neighbour's grandmother died 2 weeks ago. Her funeral was a wonderful affair. It went on, day and night, for a full week. Half of the street outside was closed off, chairs and tables laden with food appeared and hundreds of friends and family came and went as they chose to pay respect. Sometimes they ate, sometimes played cards and drank beer; at other times they watched Charlie Chaplin movies on a big tv or some kind of boxing tournament. On the final day some monks from the local temple chanted and drummed. It was a great send-off for grandma!
So yes, I accept that LuangPrabang has changed in recent years but there's still plenty to love and celebrate.
This week we had another visit to Pha Tad Ke, the new botanical garden on the other side of the Mekong.

It's a beautiful 20-minute boat trip to get there

We scrambled up to one of the viewpoints looking over the countryside

All the trees in the arboretum have grown since we were last there

The bamboo walk is lovely

And the organic veg garden is coming along

We had a drink and enjoyed the shade in the cafe

The river water is surprisingly rough. On the way back the boat zigzagged from side to side of the river, avoiding the underwater rocks that are a real hazard in the dry season. The boatmen are incredibly skilful

Another day we took a tuktuk out to the village we used to stay in. It was slightly spooky and sad to see our beloved bungalow reduced to ruins in the jungle

The beautful bourgainvillea that used to grow up our balcony is now just a shrub in the undergrowth

The whole resort has gone in just 3 years.

The entrance to what was Khone and Khoun's Bungalows

But it was lovely to see the familiar mountains

And the village has a brand new pagoda

It always amuses me to see this logo - lifted directly from ... I wonder who!?

We used to get our lettuces from this farmer. Still immaculate!

Back in town we enjoyed a meal with the lovely Max and Sai and baby Meo

And picked up the beautiful jacket that Mone and Keo, the Weaving Sisters, made for me

Trevann played them a few songs!

I think this guy is harvesting ant eggs, rather than fruit.

Trevann did a few songs at the Deckhouse but my camera was not good enough to capture the lovely setting with Mount Phousi temple in the background

One of the prettiest temples

I saw this lizard near the old bridge. Apparently it's Calotes versicolor, which is a common species in SE Asia.

When I got home I realised that the garden here is swarming with them too. I just never realised!

We're not particularly relishing the transition from 40 degrees to a predicted minus 8 in two days' time but it has to be done! A few duvet days may be in order.

See you on the other side...