Moving on while looking back

Most conversations with people who have lived in or visited Luang Prabang over a few years start with how much it has changed. The huge influx of visitors - particularly from China - has certainly had an impact and I'm shocked to hear about the way that some tourists are apparently disrespecting the special, precious rites and customs of the city, such as the morning almsgiving, with inappropriate loud behaviour and intrusive photography.
However, much of the essence of the place is intact and family life continues in many areas of town as it has done for centuries. Our neighbour's grandmother died 2 weeks ago. Her funeral was a wonderful affair. It went on, day and night, for a full week. Half of the street outside was closed off, chairs and tables laden with food appeared and hundreds of friends and family came and went as they chose to pay respect. Sometimes they ate, sometimes played cards and drank beer; at other times they watched Charlie Chaplin movies on a big tv or some kind of boxing tournament. On the final day some monks from the local temple chanted and drummed. It was a great send-off for grandma!
So yes, I accept that LuangPrabang has changed in recent years but there's still plenty to love and celebrate.
This week we had another visit to Pha Tad Ke, the new botanical garden on the other side of the Mekong.

It's a beautiful 20-minute boat trip to get there

We scrambled up to one of the viewpoints looking over the countryside

All the trees in the arboretum have grown since we were last there

The bamboo walk is lovely

And the organic veg garden is coming along

We had a drink and enjoyed the shade in the cafe

The river water is surprisingly rough. On the way back the boat zigzagged from side to side of the river, avoiding the underwater rocks that are a real hazard in the dry season. The boatmen are incredibly skilful

Another day we took a tuktuk out to the village we used to stay in. It was slightly spooky and sad to see our beloved bungalow reduced to ruins in the jungle

The beautful bourgainvillea that used to grow up our balcony is now just a shrub in the undergrowth

The whole resort has gone in just 3 years.

The entrance to what was Khone and Khoun's Bungalows

But it was lovely to see the familiar mountains

And the village has a brand new pagoda

It always amuses me to see this logo - lifted directly from ... I wonder who!?

We used to get our lettuces from this farmer. Still immaculate!

Back in town we enjoyed a meal with the lovely Max and Sai and baby Meo

And picked up the beautiful jacket that Mone and Keo, the Weaving Sisters, made for me

Trevann played them a few songs!

I think this guy is harvesting ant eggs, rather than fruit.

Trevann did a few songs at the Deckhouse but my camera was not good enough to capture the lovely setting with Mount Phousi temple in the background

One of the prettiest temples

I saw this lizard near the old bridge. Apparently it's Calotes versicolor, which is a common species in SE Asia.

When I got home I realised that the garden here is swarming with them too. I just never realised!

We're not particularly relishing the transition from 40 degrees to a predicted minus 8 in two days' time but it has to be done! A few duvet days may be in order.

See you on the other side...

Nippy in Nong Khiaw

Having settled into life in Luang Prabang and sorted out the issue of how to eat boiled eggs without eggcups, we decided on a little 2-day trip up north to the town of Nong Khiaw.

Trevann considers the egg situation with improvised eggcup number 1

Further modifications and we came up with a moderately successful solution

Nong Khiaw is a small riverside town that straddles the banks of the Nam Ou river. You used to be able to take a boat up from Luang Prabang but since the first of seven massive planned hydro dams has been built across the river, that option is no longer available. Pity.

So we set out, crammed into an overloaded minivan which then proceeded to stop and pick up every local hitchhiker and their shopping - as you do. Surely there's no room for another!?

Three uncomfortable hours later we arrived at Nong Khiaw - and it was really cold! It's a stunningly beautiful area with steep karst mountains, lovely river and tree-covered slopes but it's difficult to appreciate it and to stay warm in a bamboo shack. At first we hid under four duvets but later found a friendly local bar where we could huddle round the charcoal burner - a repurposed bomb casing. Bearing in mind we're not far from the Vietnamese border and Bien Dien Phu here it's definitely not a good idea to stray from well-trodden paths.

Coat, hat, scarf and trousers for our first view of Nong Khiaw!

Viewed through the mist. Our bungalow is one of that row on the right. Fab position

Our riverside cabin

Even indoors we were cold

Which is a shame because the view from the balcony was lovely

Fortunately, the second day the sun made an appearance and we got out for a walk

Along the road out of town

School home time. No Chelsea tractors here!

In the sunshine it's lovely

With beautiful sunset scenes

Another repurposed bomb casing

On the way back we passed the aforementioned Nam Ou Dam 2

Construction is funded by the Chinese and all the workers are brought in from China. The local villages are not consulted and are forced to relocate. They end up losing their fishing and tourism livelihoods. And apparently Thailand no longer wants to buy the electricity when it's up and running!

Back home in Luang Prabang we were delighted to find this fella is still resident in the garden wall. Such beautiful markings. He's a golden tree snake - mildly venomous but very shy.

More southern Laos

The lovely Wan and BooBoo!

While in Champasak we also took the local boat over to Don Daeng island and wandered along hot, dusty, traffic-free lanes, visiting sleepy wats and taking in the sights and smells of village life. Don Daeng is a classic mid-Mekong island with sandy shores and rice paddies and a very slow pace of life.

Our driver seems confident

I do feel like a "welcomed guest" here. Long may it remain so

The monk "guarding" this temple failed to stir from his sleep either the first time we visited or an hour later when we returned. That's him in front of the Buddha 

Lots of buffaloes

This is perhaps my favourite shot of the entire trip. The afternoon light onthe water as we returned to our boat was just stunning. 

I had a paddle to soothe my hot feet

Back in Champasak a village festival was in full flow at the local wat.

Jacques and Wan's son Archie and his friend were fascinated by the drawing process

This is one of the 19th-century temples with a curious mix of European, Vietnamese and Lao architecture.

We also went to the renowned Champasak shadow puppet show where 14 local part time musicians and actors provide the score and voices for a joyful rendition of the story of Phralak-Phralam from the Ramayana using little more than a torch and a white sheet. Very atmospheric.

A classic scene

Jacques and Wan, proprietors of Nakorn Guest House. Good fun people!

After 10 days in Champasak we said goodbye and went on up north to our second home – Luang Prabang.

Lovely Luang Prabang

Trevann presented some money we had raised with events in the UK to Max at the Music for Everyone School when we got to Luang Prabang. Gratefully received