Rocks, rapids and rosy sunsets

19 February
Last week we took a few days out for a "holiday within a holiday" and went up north to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, small towns on the banks of the Ou River. We've done this trip before. It starts with a 3 hour minibus journey.
Interesting developments from a year ago were fleeting views of the nearly completed Chinese Belt and Road Initiative railway bridge over the Mekong which will link China with Vientiane and beyond in a couple of years' time. And the massive hydroelectric dam - one of seven across this river financed by China  - which is now finished. Interestingly, leaving aside the environmental and social considerations, the huge reservoir which has replaced what was a once pretty valley of rice fields and rocky riverbed, is spectacular! It's a bit like driving along the shores of Loch Lomond. Plenty of potential for tourist gold there.

New Nam Ou reservoir

The dam itself - in passing

Nong Khiaw is a cheery little town bisected by the river and dominated by a vast concrete bridge connecting the two sides. Everything is called "Riverside ...".

Nong Khiaw - the morning view from our riverside bungalow

 

Trevann found a guitar to play at our regular breakfast cafe

The mountains are stunning but they looked a lot drier and browner than they did last year. It's been exceptionally dry.

Amazing to watch the trees "breathing" as the sun hit the tree line. The cloud formed and disappeared within 5 minutes while I watched.

Gone! 

The boatmen cram as many passengers in as possible for the 90-minute journey up to Muang Ngoi. It's not very comfortable!

Twisting round to grab a quick photo is not easy. And we were scarily close to rocks and rapids at times.

And at one point we all had to disembark and walk across a sandy island because the river levels are too low for us to get through the rapids

Some passengers managed to get lost but we found them all in the end and set off again.

Muang Ngoi is beautiful. Until recently it was only accessible by river so there are no cars or lorries. There is an exceptionally dusty road connecting Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi now but it's so unpleasant to use I suspect it sees little traffic.

The riverside land is obviously very fertile

I like these fence-cum-hedges.

A little bit of solar thermal. I wish there were more.

Nice to see a few birds, even if they are just mynahs.

Milking time for buffalos

Transport for boys.

We stayed one night in Muang Ngoi then set off back downstream.

Remnants of American military activity in northern Laos during the Vietnam War are still much in evidence. Bomb casings are common. We passed this metal canoe made from a seaplane float I think. 

Speeding back down the river.