Paradise Regained

7th December 2019
We travelled a week earlier this year, arriving in Cambodia on the 25th November. This was to avoid the hot weather in March by bringing our three months forward a week. Or at least that's our excuse. With the climate in the UK at the moment it's no great loss to leave it.

Bags are packed, we're ready to go

The journey was uneventful - we've done it before - finishing in a 3-hour taxi ride from Phnom Penh, dozily taking in the views across the flat plains of Cambodia until the green tree-covered hills of Kep come into sight and we catch glimpses of the sparkling ocean.
We were happy to find everyone well at Bacoma, except for our guide and protector Spock, top dog, who has had a seriously infected ear. He wore the "cone of shame" for a few days and looked thoroughly miserable.

Our first walk around the block brought a few surprises. The Pearl of Kep is under construction on what was a quiet, unmade road at the back of Bacoma. We saw the signs last year but plans don't necessarily translate into action in these parts. It'll be a big building right on the edge of the national park.

And along the sea front the ancient wild almond trees framing magnificent views of the Gulf of Thailand have been replaced with a row of rooves.

Apparently this is to be a new nightmarket, complete with coach parking, swimming pools and regimented rows of cars and trees. Khmer idea of modern life.

Meanwhile, sadly, the progress made last year in cleaning up the litter and plastic rubbish has gone into reverse. There are piles of garbage all along the seafront. I admit we felt a bit downhearted.
And then to cap it all, our favourite sunset bar had stopped selling BeerLao! What were we to do!?

Thankfully, nature then supplied a magnificent sunset and our spirits revived. The Crab Market is unchanged and they've built a curious "bandstand" next to the new sewage plant and public toilets where we can sit and enjoy a takeout beer. Not quite the same ambience as The Seagull, but it has the same view!

The Crab Market

The bandstand with new cafe in a large concreted space. Curious design, no greenery, separated from the market by walls. A bit bleak!

But a pleasant picnic spot

And good sunset viewpoint

We walk most days. Checking out familiar routes in the sunshine. At other times Trevann is working on his songs while I enjoy the hammock in the garden. It takes a few days to slow down but after that it's very easy to while away the time, reading, writing, studying, listening to podcasts etc. Sometimes we even talk to fellow travellers. And of course there's the ever-important pool tournament. Currently I'm winning one series to nil. But Trevann has drawn level in the second series and we're neck and neck!