All in apple Pai order

5 Jan 2015

The northern Thailand town of Pai was one of the places we thought about going to way back in 2012 when we first decided on SE Asia. In the event, we chose Luang Prabang but I’ve often wondered about Pai. It’s a town with a reputation: completely spoiled by air-headed latterday hippie backpackers and flooded with Bangkok trippers according to some; still paradise on Earth according to others.

From my point of view the main thing that put me off Pai was the description of the journey, which involves a gruelling 4-hour bus trip along a winding mountain road guaranteed – by some accounts – to make the toughest traveller throw up. Sick bags and travel sickness pills are handed out at the bus terminus. This did not sound like fun to me, having painful memories of chronic carsickness in my youth!

Nevertheless, when Mike and Lucy – friends we met in Kep last January who live in Pai for part of the year – got in touch offering a bungalow with a view for 400B and a tour of the best bars and live music in town we could hardly say no.

What a view!

This is from our front door.

And here we are – sitting outside our rustic, packing-case bungalow with the most amazing, wonderful view and cool breezes to keep the mid-day heat at bay. Pai sits in a wide river valley bounded on either side by green wooded mountains. Our bungalow faces east across the valley – straight opposite a large white Buddha half way up the hill on the other side which is lit up at night. It’s stunning.

The Buddha and the steps up to it are lit up at night.

Trevann is drawing and we’ve just enjoyed a mega-breakfast of muesli and fruit and egg and beans on toast served up by Tony, the chilled rasta resort owner. Four puppies tumble on the grass in front of the balcony, chickens and mynah birds do their thing in the background.

Keeping cool in the shade.

And I’m pleased to report that the journey here was without incident too! It’s true that the 762 bends are churning but the minibus was comfortable and the driver felt trustworthy so all was well. I no longer fear the journey back!

Tony's cool cafe.

And the town itself is ok once you know where to go. It’s true that parts are rammed with tourists – both Thai and western – and some parts are pretty ramshackle and grimy, but there are plenty of quieter roads with good cafes and bars. And the bit on the other side of the river is lovely because there are no cars! Hooray!

So that’s good. We’ll stay here, enjoying peaceful days and music-filled nights for the next few days, travelling back to Chiang Mai on Thursday then on to Laos.

And if you ever find yourself in this neck of the woods - I can recommend Pai Nub Dao bungalows for fab views!