18 Feb 2014
Every few days in our relentless schedule of sitting,
drawing, walking, reading and being, we slot in a day of “doing” – a visit to
somewhere or something of interest. This week we decided to go to see Wat Xieng
Thong – the most important and famous of Luang Prabang’s 33 temples. Xieng
Thong is the only surviving 16th century temple in the city, built
by King Setthathirath in 1560. All the others were razed to the ground in 1887
when the Chinese Black Flag army attacked the city so most are 19th
and early 20th century reconstructions.
Xieng Thong is breath-takingly beautiful with its elegant
sweeping roofs. And I love the glass mosaics depicting scenes from Lao life,
animals, boats, plants, marauding armies, etc.
Another of our trips was to the pottery village of Ban Chan
we visited last year. This time we took the local boat over the Mekong and
walked along the river to the village. On our way we passed a simple building
that we took to be just a small temple by the side of the river. It was only
when we found it in use on our way back that we realised what it was – a
funeral place. There was a big crowd of people paying their respects and a
massive pyre, burning fiercely. Trevann took a discrete photo which I’ll add here
later perhaps.
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| The local boat over the Mekong. Sometimes two trucks get on board! |
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| Luang Prabang looks green and wooded from the other side of the river. |
Oh and I’m pleased to report that the birdlife has improved
this week. The egrets are back in the valley, some large falcons have arrived
from China and ... and ... so exciting! We saw an eagle, soaring high over the
valley.
That was also the day we saw two elephants walking past on
their way to work, presumably in the forest up in the hills.
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| OK so by the time I'd got my camera out they were almost out of sight - but there *were* two elephants! |
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| Fish ponds in the valley below the bungalow |
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| Intercropping of corn and pakchoi with tomatoes and aubergine is possible because there's virtually no mechanised farming going on here. Planting, weeding, and watering is done by hand |
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| Peanuts |
Another highlight this week on Friday was the very lovely
Mukha BuSao full moon festival. After dark the city echoes to the sounds of
monks chanting and temple drums booming and the people gather at the temples and
circumambulate with candles. Lovely.
One evening Khoun
insisted that we should pick our own dinner so he drove us down to the fields
to join in the harvest of crisp lettuce and “morning Gloria”, as Khoun calls
it. Two big bags full for two dollars. We had a fabulous meal that evening with
fellow guests Canadians John, Jan and Jazzy. Good food and good company.
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| Khoun collecting bunches of morning glory. |
So now we’re into our last week, sadly. Checking out our “bucket
list” and making sure everything taken care of. Looking forward to seeing family and friends again - but not looking forward to March in UK weather!
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| We enjoyed a Lao barbeque. You get to cook your own meal at your table. |
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| The new electric-powered bus service introduced this week. |
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| Visitor to our balcony. A moth that aspires to be a wasp. |
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| The lovely cafe at Ock Pop Tok weaving centre. |
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| Papermaking - mulberry bark is soaked and mashed and filtered in frames. Flowers added |
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| Temporary dry season bamboo bridge over the Nam Khan. |
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| The peaceful centre of Luang Prabang. |
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| Young monks cooling off in the Nam Khan. |
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| The children built a den under the trailer. |
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