Springtime at last

24th January 2025

It's been very cold in the mornings for the past month. Our north-facing tiled-floor house is lovely for being so cool most of the year but this winter we've had to wear woolies and socks before getting out from under the duvets! But now spring has arrived, the air is much warmer and the coats can go back on the hangers.

Holly found it a bit hot the last couple of days of her trip and was looking forward to getting back to Yorkshire temperatures! All being well, she's currently on the train north from Heathrow.

It's been lovely showing her round Luang Prabang and spending time with her. The cat cafe worked out well and we had two trips out of town, first on the train to Vang Vieng and then north to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, so she got to see a bit of the countryside.

Trevann and I got to sample all sorts of food and drink we'd normally pass by.

First trip was to Vang Vieng with its wonderful karst landscape

One of our main reasons for visiting was to see our friend Nouth for the first time in 5 years. Such a lovely soul. Her bungalows are so comfortable - but sadly a buggy station has been built over the road and spoils the peace and quiet. Dust everywhere! And the bats have left the caves in her garden

Our favourite bar next to the river is no more - a building site! Poor Vang Vieng. It's become a dirty, dusty, noisy little town sadly ruined by petrolheads in buggies and activity junkies. 

I thought Holly might start a new career as a desert goat-herder

Nouth's bungalow

Hot air balloons are another "activity"

We did have some lovely walks though. It is possible to get away from the noise

Night-time Vang Vieng. Not as many partying backpackers here since the tragedy last year.

Next week we took the bus north to the beautiful river town of Nong Khiaw. Chinese and Korean tourists don't come here so it's much quieter. Holly and Eet, the owner of our guest house, shared their love of crochet. The shelves here were full of flowers made by Eet

Mountains and river make Nong Khiaw picture perfect.

It's one of our favourite places. I'd like to visit in green season. Unfortunately the road from LPb to NK is a nightmare. Four hours in a minivan along roads full of potholes and big trucks! 

After two nights in Nong Khiaw we took the riverboat for an hour upriver to Muang Ngoi, a tiny village of just one street.

We were hesitating to cross this wobbly bridge until an elderly Lao woman blithely skipped across

The view from our bungalow was stunning

But it was cold! Jackets, thermals and scarves needed

On the boat back to NK, Trevann and I struck lucky and bagged two of the six comfortable seats at the front.

Holly was on the wooden bench at the back

Kayaking is popular on the Nam Ou

Back in Luang Prabang we did the big temple, Xieng Thong. A sarong was needed to cover Holly's knees.

Happy Holly-Days

Monday 6th January 2025

It's lovely to get to hang out with number one daughter. Since she "left home" almost 20 years ago we've hardly spent any extended periods of time with her and it's fascinating to find out about her tastes and interests. Who knew that "bubble tea" would be a favourite beverage. And that Luang Prabang could provide such a range of flavours! She's been with us for a week so far.

Holly safely installed in Maddie's Cat Cafe with a room upstairs complete with sleeping cats for company.

We had a good wander round on the first day, finishing with a meal on the banks of the Mekong

Also climbed Mount Phousi for views of the town.

Holly's first bubble tea stop

The next day we walked out to the paper village, where they make paper from mulberry bark, decorated with bourgainvillea petals and leaves

Drinks at the Tea House

Next day was a trip over the Mekong to Chomphet and the temples on the far bank

Followed by a relaxation stop in the Belle Rive Hotel garden, which we have access to as Damian's (the manager) tenants.

Meals have been varied. Holly has more adventurous tastes than we do and loves Korean and hot and spicy foods.

Khao soi - a speciality of northern Laos. I've been wanting to try it for ages but feared that it was too spicey. Now that Holly has introduced me to it I'll try it myself.

Meanwhile great excitement in the village yesterday as a brand new road surface was laid, replacing the rough dirt track. Crowds of men gathered and hung about with shovels while a JCB dug up the old surface. Apparently all households were asked either to contribute 800,000 kip (about £30) or to help with the labouring. Hence the huge workforce!

Marvellous result 24 hours later! Great improvement

The barrier to stop cars didn't stop the dogs leaving paw prints all through the wet concrete though