Thursday, 30 January 2020

Our eighth visit to Laos



30 January
So we left our faithful friend Spock behind, with his wonky ear and determinaton to accompany us on every outing, and set off to Siem Reap via Phnom Penh. It was lovely to spend a few days with good friends Roy and Veasna, who moved from the devastation that is Sihanoukville up to Siem Reap last January. They've settled in well and have a lovely apartment - despite the loud funeral that happened to be going on over the road, which made it difficult to fully appreciate what is normally a peaceful neighbourhood. Visits to various bars were made and numerous games of pool were played.
Just a hop and a skip on the Monday via Lao Airlines and we were back in our beloved Luang Prabang, greeted by our Australian friend and landlady Sue and driven to the Greenhouse Studio, which feels like home.
Saying goodbye to our Bacoma hosts - Dara, Michael, Somnang and Shrenak
Siem Reap, Cambodia 
Amazing welcome bed art at our hotel in Siem Reap!

Bridge of baskets

The Siem Reap River runs through the middle of the town, but the water was worryingly low this year. Possibly a result of management at upstream dam 


Roy and Veasna


There are modern temples in Siem Reap as well as the famous Angkor Wat ruins

Happy days!

We treated ourselves to a hotel with a pool for the three nights in SR. It was lovely.
 Over to Luang Prabang, Laos
Frangipani (dok champa) is the national flower of Laos so it was great to arrive at the Greenhouse Studio, walk down the garden and find these blooms.

Our terrace - the tapestry hasn't advanced much since last year but I'm still working on it

This is one of our favourite spots for an evening beer. We call the bar "the ladies of the Mekong" (it's run by two Lao women). BeerLao costs 10,000 kip (87p) for a big bottle so it would be rude not to

And the view is delightful. The sun sets in just the right place on top of the mountain!

This is the Nam Khan River with seasonal bamboo bridge. Our house is on the opposite bank.

Big engineering works have been going on to shore up the banks of the Nam Khan and prevent erosion from washing away the peninsula on which Luang Prabang World Heritage Site sits

One of many

We went to visit the bungalows where we used to stay 5 years ago. The bourgainvillea is all that remains. Sad.

Curious perspective for this photo of the woman drying grasses on the roadside for broom making

Monks cleaning up around the local temple.


Sunset view of Mount Phousi, the temple-topped hill that marks the centre of Luang Prabang.g

We were pleased to see this week that Hissing Sid had returned to our garden. We didn't see him at all last year and feared that he had slithered off - or been eaten by our neighbours!

Such beautiful markings
One of the great things about travelling is the friends we pick up along the way. We first came across Mike and Denise a year ago while they rested on a bench at a small temple in Kep as we passed by. We've met up several times since and kept in touch and here we are enjoying a drink on the banks of the Mekong in LP.  

Yesterday we said farewell to American friends Jack and Kathy who left us with this "khandorkmai" which had been used in their baci ceremony (good luck for travellers). Marigolds are used as decorations in all sorts of celebrations

Some rather good random street art


Wednesday, 8 January 2020

This could be the last time

Feeling a bit sad as I sit on our veranda in the morning warmth looking out the natural beauty of Bacoma garden for probably the last time. Today we leave for Phnom Penh en route to Siem Reap for a few days then over to Luang Prabang. Bacoma is on the market. After 10 years here, Michael and family plan to return to Switzerland as soon as it sells.
All things change - but we will surely miss them and our little slice of paradise.
This hammock is made of recycled T-shirts. Excellent - and very comfortable


Hoopoos are occasional visitors to the garden

Cute - baby Tokay

Terrible tragedy this week in Kep when a six-storey building under construction collapsed, killing 36 people. Construction workers and their families often live on site so many of the people killed and injured were women and children. The PM came to coordinate the rescue services and these were his helicopters on the local football pitch

We visited an abandoned resort in the National Park.


It's a bit too remote for us to consider for our stay next year - if they reopen it.

These birdwing butterflies just will not pose for photographs so I was quite pleased with this one! 
This is my morning view

Our Bacoma bungalow


Bacoma Khmer house

Bacoma garden

The pond

Bacoma room for two - hobbit house


Inside the hobbit house

Bacoma path
A fond farewell. (And spot the passing kingfisher!)
I'd better go and pack.