4000 Islands and a Typhoon

 Who'd a thought it? The Cherries (momentarily) at the top of the league!

And in other news, we took a short trip down to southern Laos, to revisit a place we really like (Champasak) and spend a few days in a place we haven't been to before (4000 Islands).

Si Phan Don (4000 Islands) is as far south as you can get in Laos, right on the border with Cambodia

 It was a journey by plane, car, ferry and bus. First a flight to Pakse, where we were picked up by Wan from Nakorn Guesthouse and driven 45 minutes to Champasak. It was lovely to realise that we had met before. She is the same owner from last time we stayed at Nakorn 7 years ago. Since then she's ditched the slightly grumpy Belgian husband we remembered and now manages the guest house with a super-efficient and friendly German man called Herbert. So it goes.

After two days at Nakorn, we crossed the Mekong in a little local ferry and were picked up by a mini-van for the 2 hour journey to Nakasang. Then another ferry to Don Det and we were at our guesthouse on 4000 Islands. After 4 days there we did the reverse journey: back to Champasak, Pakse and flight home to Luang Prabang.

So that was our little holiday, pictures below.

But first, there was the "Fun Run"! Now I don't run. The last time I did so was probably on the hockey pitch at school. But the Children's Hospital is a good cause and the Luang Prabang Half Marathon is a big event in the year so I was persuaded to sign up for the 7km version. To be honest, the worst part was having to get up at 4:30am in order to reach the start by 6. There was no compulsion to actually run and in the end I walked most of the way and did a little jog when I felt inspired to do so. Trevann, a committed runner, powered on ahead of course.

Do I look the part!?

It was a good course.

Not bad - though I say it myself, considering I stopped to take photos and for a little chat with a friend.

The whole event was incredibly well organised, with 3000 runners, road closures, marshalls, free food, T-shirts and even medals! 

The next week we set off for our holiday to southern Laos.

Nakorn Guesthouse is right on the banks of the Mekong, with views across to Don Daeng island.

It's very comfortable!

It's in the heart of Champasak which is a small, one-road, 10-wat town.

The food at Nakorn is delicious.

The main attraction near Champasak is the ruined ancient Khmer-Hindu temple called Wat Phu, which sits on the hill overlooking the Mekong valley. Wat Phu is said to pre-date Angkor Wat and is thought to be one of the oldest sites of worship in SE Asia. It's also one of my favourite places in the world!

Visitors approach the temple along an impressive lingam avenue. 

The steps up the mountain are giant! With silver dok champa (frangipani) trees on either side.

The sanctuary is still a well-used place of Buddhist workship.

Relief carving shows the Hindu Trimurti - Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva.

View from the top across the Mekong valley.

I absolutely love Wat Phu. It is a special place for me.

The next morning we set off for the journey south.

Crossing the Mekong

With life jackets!

On the other side we were joined by a gaggle of other travellers as we waited (an hour) for the mini-bus.

Nakasang ferry port, where the boats leave for Don Det (4000 Islands).

Don Det has no cars! Transport is bicycle, a few motos, walking or boat.

And iron buffalos for the farmers.

The view from our guesthouse room.

Trevann was delighted to find a cafe serving tea with milk in a mug!

Lots of buffalos

Rice harvest was in full swing

This is the reason why the Mekong is not navigable from sea to source. At Li Phi (meaning Spirit Trap - because it is where the spirits of deceased people and animals are trapped) waterfall the river flows over a series of thunderous cascades and rapids. Awe-inspiring!

We sat a watched for a while.

There is evidence of unsuccessful attempts to commercialise. For example, this abandoned restaurant building next to the river.

A shame. It must've been lovely when new. I suspect Covid would be to blame.

The islands are truly peaceful and beautiful.

In the late 19th century, in an attempt to circumvent the waterfalls, the French built a 7km railway from Don Khon island over this bridge to Don Det so that they could transport gunboats up the Mekong.

This is the remains of the French Port, where the railway cargo was loaded onto boats destined for the north. 

Trevann with his mug of tea.

I was a little perturbed to see the forecast track of this typhoon. In the event, our last night on Don Det was fairly alarming with torrential rain and howling winds at 4 in the morning. We were glad to be in a concrete guesthouse rather than a bamboo shack! I was also relieved to find that it had blown itself out by the time we set off back to Champasak.

Back at Nakorn

And then the flight (Lao Airlines) back from Pakse to Luang Prabang. Where we found that the dok champa (frangipani) cutting we had planted in our garden last year has finally burst into flower. How beautiful is that!?